Loaded a colour film into my Pentax Z50p while out with my Photobuddies a couple of weeks ago and it promptly wound straight back into the cassette. So when I got home I decided to re-roll it into a spare cassette but with the emulsion the other way around to try Redscale for the first time (the light has to pass through the film base first before it hits the light sensitive emulsion) When I got to the end of rewinding the film some of the perforations were damaged so the Pentax feeling the resistance decided the film was finished and rewound.
I loaded the DIY Redscale into an Olympus trip that I haven’t used for ages. Wasn’t sure if I would get any results so just snapped away, the film was 200asa so I tried setting it at 100asa, 80asa when it was dull.
Straight From The Scanner
I always scan without any adjustments, then import into Lightroom for levels, colour balance and sharpening.
Adjusted In Lightroom
Having looked at some sample images of commercially available Redscale film this was the nearest I could get, so set it up as a preset in Lightroom.
The Last Plantagenet
They do really reasonably priced Fish & Chips and have a good selection of beers, before it was a pub it was an upmarket furniture store.
If I shoot some more Redscale I will probably rate it at 50asa.
Well I seem to have cured the hickey (UK definition !) problem by filtering the D76 developer before mixing it 1 to 1 with demineralised water, only a few spots on the negatives.
Over the last few weeks I’ve been using an Olympus 35DC, a fully auto compact rangefinder camera. The weather has been really mixed so I loaded it with Ilford HP5+ and pushed it to 800asa, the maximum the camera will set. It has a nice 40mm f1.7, 6 element lens, and is surprisingly heavy for a small camera.
Zits, hickey’s (UK English definition !) spots, my negatives had lots of them even though I used demineralised water for mixing the stock developer solution. I think I now know what’s giving my negatives a bad case of acne. Kodak D76 developer is a sachet of powder that needs mixing with water at 50 – 55 deg C, simply the developer isn’t fully dissolving, so I will be using Ilford ID11 from now on, this is virtually the same as D76 but the developer powder comes in two separate sachets (mixed separately) and from a dim and distant memory is easier to mix, and why I used to use it. The only upside to all these Zits and spots is that I need to spend a long long time in Lightroom cloning them out, this becomes an invitation for my cats to take it in turns sitting on my lap and Purring.
After attaching my new (£15.00) 37mm Mir lens to the Canon 500n/Rebel G and half pressing the shutter button the batteries immediately expired, and I didn’t have any spares. So I dug out my M42 to PK adaptor and decided to give the Pentax Super A an outing. The Pentax is in really good condition apart from the viewfinder which at some time in its life has had water ingress which has left staining on the focusing screen. Loaded it up with Kodak TriX and set off reasonably early to the Arboretum, the Sun was out and coming in at a low winter angle. After a couple of shots I realised the back of the lens caught the mirror if it was focused at anything approaching Infinity, fortunately I had packed an Helios 44-M – 58mm lens, which I used for the rest of the frames.
Low Light Tangles
After the above 2 shots I switched to the Helios lens.
Had my Olympus OM2sp serviced at Luton Camera Repair last month as the film wind on was misbehaving. They did a great job with it, replacing all the foam light seals, checking the electronics, and re tensioning the shutter. The camera felt really good so I took with me on a walk to the local arboretum. It was a really hot humid day, but there were some nice clouds about.
Path To The Arboretum
Most of the images were taken using 24mm Zuiko, and 50mm Zuiko lenses, using a Red or R72 Infrared filter
Trees & Clouds
Through The leaves
The film has given the Fir a bit of a surreal look.
I’ll post some more shots from this roll over the next few days.
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